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Reference Book of Textile Knitting
by
Carmine Mazza
Paola zonda

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Table of Contents

BASIC TECHNOLOGY ............................................................................................................ 11
General Remarks............................................................................................................................. 11
Classification of Knitting Machines................................................................................................ 13
The Three Main Types of Needle .................................................................................................. 14
The Latch Needle............................................................................................................................ 15
Needle Specifications ..................................................................................................................... 18
The Stitch Formation Cycles with the Three Types of Needles...................................................... 19
Stitch Formation with a Latch Needle (picture 13)......................................................................... 19
Stitch Formation with a Spring Beard Needle (picture 14)............................................................. 20
Stitch Formation with a Compound Needle (picture 15). ............................................................... 20
The Needle-bed............................................................................................................................... 21
FLAT KNITTING MACHINES ............................................................................................... 23
The Manual Flat Knitting Machine ................................................................................................ 24
The Needle-bed .............................................................................................................................. 25
The Carriage ................................................................................................................................... 26
The Cam-locks ............................................................................................................................... 27
High-butt Needles and Low-butt Needles ...................................................................................... 29
Knit Stitch Formation .................................................................................................................... 30
Tuck Stitch Formation .................................................................................................................... 31
Miss Stitch Formation .................................................................................................................... 32
Fabric Take-down ........................................................................................................................... 34
Needle-bed Racking ....................................................................................................................... 35
Stitch Transfer................................................................................................................................. 36
Automatic Flat Knitting Machines.................................................................................................. 37
Fabric Take-down Motion ............................................................................................................. 38
Program Reading System ............................................................................................................... 39
The Thread Guide .......................................................................................................................... 41
Lateral Control System................................................................................................................... 41
The Needle-beds ............................................................................................................................ 42
Carriage and Cam Plates ................................................................................................................ 42
The Exchange Technique................................................................................................................ 44
Selection with Sliders or Sinkers .................................................................................................... 45
The Stitch Transfer Process ............................................................................................................ 47
The Integrated Cam-lock ................................................................................................................ 49
Electronic Flat-bed Machines ......................................................................................................... 50
The Technical Evolution of Flat-bed Machines ............................................................................. 51
Links-links Machines...................................................................................................................... 58
CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINES .....................................................................................60
Introduction..................................................................................................................................... 60
Classification Criteria...................................................................................................................... 60
Classification by Diameter ............................................................................................................. 60
Classification by Number of Needle-beds....................................................................................... 60
Basic Structure of a Large-diameter Circular Knitting Machine..................................................... 61
The Yarn Feeding System............................................................................................................... 63
The Spool Holder ............................................................................................................................ 63
Yarn Feeders .................................................................................................................................. 64
The Thread Guide ........................................................................................................................... 66
Stitch Formation Motions................................................................................................................ 68
The Main Components of a Single-bed Machine ........................................................................... 68
The Main Components of a Double-bed Machine ......................................................................... 69
The Technical Evolution ................................................................................................................. 71
Selection Systems ........................................................................................................................... 72
Selection by means of Needles with Multilevel Butts..................................................................... 72
Jacquard Selection........................................................................................................................... 73
Mechanical Jacquard Selection System........................................................................................... 73
Electronic Jacquard Selection System ............................................................................................ 75
Take-down and Winding Motions ..................................................................................................76
Take-down Motion ......................................................................................................................... 76
Winding Motion.............................................................................................................................. 77
Drives, Control and Monitoring Systems ....................................................................................... 79
Drives ............................................................................................................................................. 79
Control and Monitoring System ..................................................................................................... 79
Ancillary Systems ........................................................................................................................... 80
Lubrication System ......................................................................................................................... 80
Suction and Blowing Systems......................................................................................................... 81
Safety Systems ................................................................................................................................ 81
Large-diameter Circular Knitting Machines .................................................................................. 82
Single-bed Circular Knitting Machines ..........................................................................................82
Stitch Formation Cycle on Single-bed Knitting Machines ............................................................. 82
Jersey Knitting Machines ............................................................................................................... 84
Terry Knitting Machines ................................................................................................................ 84
Fleece Knitting Machines ............................................................................................................... 86
Double-bed Circular Knitting Machines ......................................................................................... 87
Dial-cylinder Knitting Machines..................................................................................................... 87
Stitch Formation on Dial-cylinder Knitting Machines .................................................................... 88
Rib-stitch Machines ........................................................................................................................ 89
Interlock Machines ......................................................................................................................... 89
Variable Needle-bed Machines ....................................................................................................... 90
Double-cylinder Machines ............................................................................................................. 92
Stitch Formation and Needle Transfer ............................................................................................93
Medium-diameter Knitting Machines ............................................................................................. 95
Medium-diameter Cloth-manufacturing Machines ........................................................................ 95
Bodysize / Seamlesswear Machines................................................................................................95
Small-diameter Circular Knitting Machines .................................................................................. 96
Single-cylinder Machines .............................................................................................................. 98
Single-cylinder Machines with Needles in the Dial (Rib Stitch) .................................................... 99
Double-cylinder Machines ........................................................................................................... 100
FULL-FASHIONED KNITTING MACHINES..................................................................... 101
LOOP-WHEEL CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINES ...................................................... 102
WARPING ................................................................................................................................. 103
WARP KNITTING MACHINES ........................................................................................... 104
The Guide Bar .............................................................................................................................. 105
The Guide Bar Chain ................................................................................................................... 106
Classification of Warp Knitting Machines ................................................................................... 107
Stitch Formation on Flat Warp Knitting Machines ....................................................................... 108
Flat Single-bed Warp Knitting Machines with Spring Beard Needles.......................................... 108
Single-bed Raschel Machines with Latch Needles ...................................................................... 110
Flat Single-bed Warp Knitting Machines and Single-bed Raschel Machines
with Compound Needles .............................................................................................................. 111
Flat Double-bed Warp Knitting Machines and Double-bed Raschel machines ............................ 113
CROCHET MACHINES ......................................................................................................... 114
Stitch Formation with Latch Needles............................................................................................ 116

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