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Reference Book of Textile Finishing

by

Pietro Bellini

Ferruccio Bonetti

Ester Franzetti

giuseppe Rosace

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Table of Contents

INTRODUCTION.......................................................................................................... pag. 1

The Textile Finishing Stage ....................................................................................... “ 2

Wool Finishing Processes .......................................................................................... “ 3

Cotton Finishing Processes......................................................................................... “ 5

Silk Finishing Processes ............................................................................................. “ 6

Synthetic Fibres Finishing Processes.......................................................................... “ 7

PRE-DYEING TREATMENTS..........................................................................................“ 8

Singeing...................................................................................................................... “ 8

Desizing ..................................................................................................................... “ 9

Scouring...................................................................................................................... “ 10

Bleaching.................................................................................................................... “ 10

Mercerising................................................................................................................. “ 12

Chlorination ................................................................................................................ “ 13

Carbonising................................................................................................................. “ 14

Oiling..........................................................................................................................“ 16

Fulling and Washing-milling Treatments ................................................................... “ 16

Silk Weighting............................................................................................................ “ 20

Heat Setting ................................................................................................................ “ 22

Decortication .............................................................................................................. “ 23

Elastic Fabrics............................................................................................................. “ 23

Washing...................................................................................................................... “ 24

Drying......................................................................................................................... “29

PRE-DYEING TREATMENTS..........................................................................................“ 40

Exhaust Dyeing .......................................................................................................... “ 41

Preparation and Dyeing Machines..............................................................................“49

Autoclaves..................................................................................................................“51

Hanks..........................................................................................................................“55

Arm Dyeing Machines ...............................................................................................“56

Winch Dyeing Machines............................................................................................“57

Jet Dyeing Machines...................................................................................................“59

Overflow Dyeing Machines........................................................................................“62

Air-flow (Air Jet) Dyeing Machines...........................................................................“66

Jiggers.........................................................................................................................“69

Beam Dyeing Machines..............................................................................................“70

Garment-dyeing Machines .........................................................................................“71

Colour Kitchens..........................................................................................................“73

Pad Dyeing ................................................................................................................“75

PRINTING ...........................................................................................................................“ 81

Printing Methods.........................................................................................................“82

Printing Machines .......................................................................................................“85

Steaming Machines.....................................................................................................“93

Washing Machines for Printed Fabrics ......................................................................“96

Developments in Screen and Cylinder Engraving Techniques and

in Textile Printing........................................................................................................“102

Ink-jet Printing

 ...........................................................................................................“104

FUNCTIONAL FINISHING ..............................................................................................“ 107

Mechanical Finishing Treatments...............................................................................“108

Calendering ................................................................................................................“109

Embossing...................................................................................................................“112

Sueding........................................................................................................................“112

Raising (Napping) ......................................................................................................“114

Wool Glazing Machine ...............................................................................................“119

Shearin.........................................................................................................................“120

Stabilisation ................................................................................................................“121

Decating......................................................................................................................“123

Steaming......................................................................................................................“125

Chemical Finishing Treatments...................................................................................“129

Softening.....................................................................................................................“136

Crease-proof Treatments.............................................................................................“139

Flame-retardant Treatments.........................................................................................“144

Hydrophobic, Oil-proof and Water-proof Treatments ................................................“147

Anti-soil Treatments....................................................................................................“152

Anti-static Treatments.................................................................................................“155

Anti-mildew Treatments..............................................................................................“155

Antimicrobial Treatments............................................................................................“156

Plasma Treatments.......................................................................................................“159

Enzyme Treatments.....................................................................................................“160

The Influence of Finishing Treatments on Dyed Goods..............................................“168

ACCESSORIES ...................................................................................................................“ 173

AUTOMATION IN TEXTILE...........................................................................................“ 179

Foreword.....................................................................................................................“179

Colour analysis and control.........................................................................................“180

Process controllers.......................................................................................................“183

Production management systems.................................................................................“184

Automated colour kitchens..........................................................................................“186

Automated storage.......................................................................................................“192

Handling and robotisation systems..............................................................................“193

Machine monitoring systems.......................................................................................“197

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