DYEING
AND
CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY
OF TEXTILE FIBRES
E. R. TROTMAN
M.B.E.,
Ph.D.
FOURTH EDITION
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Chapter
History
of dyeing
The
early history of dyeing textile materials and the use of dyes derived from
natural
sources. Perkin’s discovery of Mauveine
and a short description of the
synthetic
dyestuff industry.
General
properties of fibres
Some
general properties of textile fibres and yarns. The building of macromolecules
by
polymerization. The use of X-ray diffraction methods in investigating
molecular
structure of fibres. The significance of crystalline and
amorphous
regions
and the determination of their relative proportions. Fibrillar
structure
of
fibres. The nature of intermolecular forces in crystalline regions.
Molecular
weight
of polymers. Relative humidity and moisture content of
fibres.
Classification
of fibres.
Cotton
and the chemistry of cellulose
The
natural history and structure of cotton fibres. The chemistry of cellulose
and
of its degradation products. The fluidity and other tests for determining
the
degree ‘of degradation of cellulose. The action of physical conditions and
chemicals
on cotton. Mercerization and the
explanation of the action of sodium
hydroxide
by Donnan’s theory of membrane
equilibrium.
Multicellular
vegetable fibres
The
multicellular vegetable fibres, including descriptions of flax, ramie, hemp,
and
jute; short descriptions are included of their preparation for spinning and
their
properties and uses.
Animal
fibres
The
growth of animal hairs and the tissues of which they are composed. Wool
sorting
and qualities. The chemistry of proteins and keratin and the properties
conferred
by salt and cystine cross links. The relationship between elastic
properties
and molecular structure and a and fl
keratins. The cultivation of
silkworms
and the properties of silk.
Regenerated
man-made fibres
The
production of nitrocellulose rayon by
Chardonnet. Regenerated cellulose
yarns,
including cuprammonium and viscose and the more highly orientated
fibres
obtained by stretch spinning. Polynosic fibres. Thepreparationof cellulose
acetate
and spinning fibres from the product. The production and uses of
alginate
yarns. A short description of regenerated protein fibres.
The
large-scale preparation of hcxamethylene diamine and adipic acid. The
spinning
and properties of nylon 66 and other polyamides. Polyesters, including
the
manufacture of terrphthnlic acid and Terylene.
The properties of acrylonitrile
and
the polyacrvlonitrile
fibres. Fibres obtained from polyurethane and
vinyl
products. Crimping thermoplastic yarns. Elastomeric fibres.
Water
and water purification
The
classification of natural waters and the impurities in the claises. The
hardness
of water and lime-soda and base-exchange methods of Softening.
Sequestering
agents. Methods of determining temporary and permanent hardness.
Effluents.
Detergents
and scouring
The
properties of waxes and vegetable oils and the manufacture and properties
of
soap. Anionic and cationic compounds.
Surface tension and the mode of
action
of surface-active compounds, including the theory of detergency. Kier
boiling
cotton; scouring wool, silk, and the man-made fibres. Solvent scouring.
Bleaching
Bleaching
powder and sodium hypochlorite and the determination of available
chlorine.
Bleaching cellulosic fibres with hypochlorites. Hydrogen peroxide and
its
properties and use in bleaching textiles. The use of sodium chlorite for
bleaching
cellulosic and other fibres. Staving
with sulphur dioxide. Fluorescent
brightening
agents.
Unshrinkable
and other finishes
Causes
of shrinking of wool and a review of shrink-proof finishes. Assessment
of
shrinkage and degradation of wool fibres by chemical action. Description of
crease-resist
and easy-care finishes for cellulosic materials. Cross-linking.
Methods
for making fabrics fire resistant, water repellent, and moth- and
milde#&oof.
Introduction
to chemical constitution and colour, theory of dyeing, and classification of
dyes
Theories
of relationship between colour and
chemical constitution of organic
compounds.
Introduction to theory of dyeing. Classification of dyes.
Dyeing
machines
Basic
requirements of dyeing machines and the materials used in their construction.
Descriptions
of machines for dyeing loose stock, hanks, packages,
fabrics,
and
garments.
Vat
dyes
Chemical
characteristics of irnlia~kl and
anthraquinonc Git dyes. and the
relationship
hctwcrn structure and nfhnity for cellulosic iihrcs. ‘The
application
of
vat dyes and the use of restraining agents. Fastness properties and accclerated
photochcrnical action. Continuous methods for dyeing with
vat dyes.
Disperse dyes and dyeing cellulose acetates
Disperse
dyes and their mechanism of dyeing. Description of the methods of
application,
including diazotization and coupling on the fibre. Fastness properties
of
disperse dyes and gas fading.
Reactive dyes
Reactions
of cyanuric chloride and the chemistry
of reactive dyes. Evidence
supporting
the formation of a covalent bond between the dye molecule and
cellulose.
Application of dichlorotriazinyl dyes at low temperatures and
monochlorotriazinyl
dyes at high temperatures, by batch and
continuous methods.
Description
of the Remazol, Primazine ard Levafix
dyes. Procilan dyes.
Dyeing synthetic fibres
Presetting
thermoplastic fibres. Dyeing polyamides, polyesters, and polyacrylonitriles.
Dyeing materials containing mixtures of fibres
Dyeing
materials composed of mixtures of fibres. Description of the crossdyeing
and
production of solid shades on wool and cellulosic unions. Dyeing
textiles
containing polyamides, polyesters, or polyacrylonitriles mixed with
other
fibres.
l’esting dyed materials .
Use
of grey scales in expressing results of fastness tests. Determination of light
fastness
and description of fading lamps, and the effect of humidity on light
fading.
Washing, perspiration, bleaching, cross-dyeing, and mereerization
fastness
tests. identification of dyes by spotting tests and ehromatographic
methods.
Colour
The
spectrum and additive and subtractive primaries. Description of Oswald’s
and
Munsell’s systems of colour
classification and the C. I.E. chromaticity chart.
The
design and use of calorimeters and
spectrophotometers. Instrumental
match
prediction.
Appendix:
Miscellaneous information and tables
Comparative
thermometer scales. Comparison of hydrometer scales. Specific
gravities
of caustic soda and caustic potash lyes. Specific gravities of sulphuric
acid,
Temperatures of dry saturated steam. Decinormal
solutions. Hydrochloric
acid
specific gravities. Specific gravities of acetic acid, formic acid, and
ammonium
hydroxide
solutions. pH
intervals
over which indicators change
colour.
Gallons, litres, and pints conversion table.
Conversion factors.
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